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For the Prospective Traveler to South Africa

I. Reasons for Traveling to South Africa

Before you commit to your travel to South Africa, you should first make a serious assessment concerning what you intend to achieve from this trip. Having a set of goals in mind will help you to prioritize and organize your trip around those events and places that matter most. The following are just a few example responses to that question:

a) to volunteer and make a difference,

b) to achieve a sense of connectedness and betterment of spirit,

c) to move outside of comfort zones and learn about the bigger world,

d) to immerse yourself into a different culture,

e) to tour interesting and historic places,

f) to scout for places to live,

g) to get away from the fast-paced, daily routines of my modern life,

h) to explore your family roots...

II. Safety Tips

South Africa is a politically stable and religiously tolerant country. However, crime does exist, with muggings and pick-pocketing being something for which to be on guard, particularly in the more impoverished areas and in the center of towns like Johannesburg and Cape Town. It is also possible, depending on where you stay, that you may see youth doing drugs in broad daylight (typically "nature cigarettes" and pipes).

You can minimize your chances of becoming a victim by keeping your valuables and money concealed in a neck pouch hanging under your shirt. It is recommended that you only keep a small amount of cash in your pants pocket so that you are not counting large amounts of money in public. With regards to cameras or cell phones, be cautious as to where you use and display them, and in particular watch that you don’t lay them down somewhere. Also, keep your luggage locked at all times. Generally keep only one credit card on your possession, along with a copy of your passport and insurance. Keep the originals back in your hotel safe or inside your locked suitcases back at your host family’s house. It is generally wise not to roam around town at night by yourself, but instead to be accompanied by a knowledgeable guide.

Overall, South Africa is generally quite safe for travelers, and these guidelines could really apply to any country being visited, and will ensure optimal success for your trip as your travel about the country.

III. Health and Vaccines

Generally South Africa is Malaria-free; however, if you consider going to Kruger National Park, then you will want to consider obtaining Malaria medicine before your trip. See http://www.cdc.gov (Centers for Disease Control) for the latest information on what vaccines to get when traveling to South Africa. At a minimum, the following are usually required.

a) Hepatitis A

b) Hepatitis B

c) Typhoid

d) DTP booster

e ) Polio booster

f) Measles booster

If you will be working with animals during your stay, then you may want to explore obtaining a rabies vaccination. And if you will work with AIDS patients, then you will want to double-check your TB vaccinations to ensure everything is in order since many AIDS patients also have Tuberculosis. The current HIV infection rate in South Africa is about one in every six persons.

IV. Infrastructure and Measurements

Tap water is safe in South Africa, although it may sometimes have the taste of chlorination. The roads and public transportation are good, as are medical services given you have insurance and visit one of the private hospitals/clinics. Electrical outlets are 220 volts at 50 hertz, and use large, round three-prong (15 amp) or thin, round two-prong (5 amp) plugs. With regards to cellular services, there are three major players in South Africa (Vodacom, Cell C, and MTN), and a traveler is generally able to get cell connectivity from anywhere in the country, including GPRS high-speed data. Internet wifi hotspots exist at airports and generally in and around Cape Town; there are also internet cafes for connecting to the internet. Airports for Johannesburg and Cape Town are within 15 miles of the city.

Bathrooms at homes, by regulation, do not generally contain electrical outlets, so you will typically be drying your hair in another room. Also note that although winters can get down to just above freezing at times, many homes and hostels do not have central heating running, which might be the case for your assigned host family, although warm blankets are readily provided.

South Africa uses the metric system, which means distances are expressed in kilometers and temperatures measured in Celsius. The national currency is the Rand, which is approximately one-sixth of the value of the U.S. dollar. You will find that most major credit cards are accepted, including Visa, Master Card, and American Express, although the latter's traveler’s checks are commonly only exchangeable at a bank or AMEX exchange facility (as in the waterfront in Cape Town). ATM machines are conveniently available aplenty with 24/7 accessibility, although it should be noted that banks generally close between 3 and 4 PM. There is commonly a 14% VAT (value added tax) included in purchases.

Television over the air is made up of a few channels, most English speaking. You will find that South Africa enjoys a significant amount of American programming, from movies right down to wrestling. Radio also provides plenty of recognizable music for the traveler from the states.

V. Cultural Differences

You should be flexible to the fact that there will likely be some cultural differences when compared to your own frame of reference. South Africa is a diverse country with regards to ethnicity and language, having eleven official languages. Although English is spoken by most, it is common for conversations to lapse back and forth between English and Afrikaans since both are the predominant languages, particularly in and around Cape Town. South Africa tends to be very tolerant of diverse religions, so occasionally you may hear a Muslim call to prayer echoed at night nearby a Christian church, with both operating in relative harmony.

South Africa is at times both a highly developed country and one that has heart breaking areas of poverty and disease; a country that demonstrates the reality that the close proximity of haves-and-have-nots extends to all corners of the globe.  In spite of this observation, you will find perhaps the most diverse and enriching country on the planet from both a visual and human-interaction standpoint, truly exemplifying its claim to fame as the "Rainbow Nation."

It is interesting to contrast the more simple and economical architectural structures of Johannesburg with the more historically diverse buildings in Cape Town. Another character difference, noted in winter, between the two cities is that Jo’burg is beset by a pervasiveness of grass fires (cigarette butts, controlled burns, burning rubbish, or paraffin stoves are common causes) resulting in a smoky air about parts of the city that is often exacerbated by the exhaust of vehicles. By contrast, the coastal Cape Town has perhaps the freshest, cleanest air of the country.

Other assorted observations are as follows. Children are often seen running around with substantially more freedom than what would be allowed in the states. Taxis are commonly vans which will hold from ten to fifteen occupants, and by American standards the rates for these taxis are reasonable. With regards to driving, that activity takes place on the opposite side of the roads versus the direction of traffic in the U.S., and drivers/passengers are often seen not buckling up (so be careful not to lapse into bad habits there). Traffic lights are called "robots," and drivers in Cape Town should be cautious of the unattended cameras ready to snap you speeding, or driving through a red light (signs will usually notify when such cameras are in operation). Rugby and Soccer are important sports to the country.

Keep in mind that South Africa is a recent democracy, having officially emerged from the harsh realities of apartheid in 1994. Much positive change has already occurred, particularly with regards to human rights, but there is much more to be accomplished, often at a pace that can seem quite slow to many (especially given the number of impoverished townships and squatter camps still existing). Be sensitive to these political and economic changes and difficulties, but at the same time don’t hesitate to ask questions, as no doubt much of your trip is about the act of learning and you will encounter many a soul ready to share some insight.

Should you go on a volunteer trip, you will find your host families to be extremely friendly folks, with your safety and satisfaction utmost in their minds. It is through these connections that you will receive much of your South African education since they are also typically very knowledgeable about their community and its history. Allow yourself to accept this hospitality as you take a day or two to become acclimated to your new surroundings (particularly your minority status, if you are white) and to overcome any separation anxiety you may be feeling.

When taking pictures, be sure to ask permission first, particularly when snapping government buildings (while on site).

VI. Etiquette While There

When going to South Africa on a volunteer trip, be very respectful of your host family and the in-country coordinators, as well as persons and facilities you encounter during your trip. Most host families are not rich, and are providing their home, water, electricity, food, and transportation on a tight budget. This hospitality is not to be abused. Examples observed in the past are students ringing up expensive phone bills or ordering and eating more than their fair share, based on pre-allocated expenses.

It is a wise recommendation to research about the country before you get there.  Learn about its history, its diverse people, and rich ecology.  Even take the time to learn a few important words of Africaans before you leave.  This should be balanced of course, as the element of surprise can be just as rewarding as preparation.  The most important thing to remember is simply to wash away (or set aside) your preconceived notions and biases and allow yourself to become intoxicated with this wonderful country on the other side of the world.

VII. Preliminaries

Before you leave on your trip, make sure the following are in place:

a) passport with expiration at least six months beyond travel’s allotted stay,

b) Visa, if required based on your country and your intended length of stay,

c) appropriate certifications as relates to the projects in which you will be involved,

d) travel insurance covering medical and property loss,

e) a copy of all credit cards and other important documents to be left at home on the state side,

f) state-side emergency contact information to take with you,

g) South Africa travel contact-information provided to your state-side contact,

h) enablement of international roaming on your cell phone account (or rent a phone/card there),

i) vaccinations up-to-date and paperwork obtained if needed for intended project(s),

j) international drivers license (if planning to drive),

k) scuba diving license (if planning to do the shark cages off coast of Cape Town),

Note that if you do not have a Visa before entering South Africa, and if your stay is longer than thirty days (speaking of U.S. travelers), then you can obtain one while in the country, although you must factor in extra costs to cover that transaction.

VIII. What to Take With You

This is not an all-inclusive list, but does contain some important items nonetheless:

a) 110-to-220 volt plug adaptors,

b) TSA approved locks for luggage,

c) umbrella or poncho,

d ) warm clothes and jacket (if Winter),

e) a pair of comfortable foot ware along with a pair of hiking shoes,

f) medicine, vitamins, and Malaria pills (if needed),

g) mosquito repellant (at least 95% deet),

h) mosquito net (more so while in villages or when sleeping exposed to outdoors),

i) soap case,

j) hand disinfectant,

k) camera with large optical zoom (great for animal parks and mountain shots),

l) credit card(s),

m) second ID,

n) binoculars,

o) cell phone (if not renting one when there),

p) sun block,

q) bathing suit,

r) water purification tablets (if staying in remote villages),

s) backpack,

t ) travel guide,

u) sufficient money to cover additional expenses and travel,

v) flashlight and batteries,

w) gift for host family,

x) dietary needs conveyed to coordinator and host family,

y) some Rand before leaving on your trip

z) last but not least, make sure you have your passport and airplane tickets.

IX. Points of Interest

The following are some points of interest you may want to consider:

a ) Cape Town and Johannesburg - historic cities

b) Parliament and judicial buildings (Cape Town)

c ) Robben Island prison (Cape Town)

d) Table Rock mountain (Cape Town)

e) District 6 and Crossroads (Cape Town)

f) Simon’s Town and meeting of Indian/Atlantic oceans (Cape Town)

g) Soweto (scene of ‘76 student uprisings and one of Mandela’s home towns)

h) Pretoria (capital of South Africa)

i) Durban (coastal city with large Indian population)

j) Pilanesburg National Park (animal refuge)

k) Sun City resort

l) Kruger National Park (largest of the wildlife locations)

m) Ndebele tribal village

Be sure that before you leave from the states, you have perused travel guides to determine those places you want to visit during your trip. When you get to South Africa, you should also inquire about festivities or other events going on during your month(s) of stay.

X. Seasons and Time

South Africa is nine hours ahead of PST and six hours ahead of EST (during Summer), and two hours ahead of GMT all year around since it does not have daylight savings time. For Johannesburg, summers are hot and usually above 30 to 35C, with periodic rain; winters are dry with mild daytime temperatures and cold nights. With regards to Cape Town, its rainfall and temperatures are more moderate (with summers being warm to hot). It is well known in Cape town that depending on the weather conditions, a given day could reveal the aspects of four different seasons.

Winters are typically best for whale watching and game viewing (as the animals gather around watering holes during the dry times). Christmas in the summer is considered a wonderful time of year, particularly in Cape town, and indeed summers tend to be the heaviest for tourism.

XI. Website References

http://travel.state.gov - State Department

http://travel.state.gov/passport - Passport information

http://travel.state.gov/visa - Visa Information

http://www.cdc.gov - Centers for Disease Control

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/worldguide/destinations/africa/south-africa - Lonely Planet Guide

http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock - World Clock

http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/city.html?n=56 - Dialing Codes for Cape town

http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/city.html?n=111 - Dialing Codes for Johannesburg

Additions to Africa Photos

I added new photo albums for "Africa's Animals" (plus a video) and "African Art," as well as a number of new photos for Sun City.  There is also a video in the "Ndebele School" album.  Finally, I sharpened up a few blurry pictures and replaced my awful "About" photo with one more "naturally me."

Trip to South Africa

In the sidebar is a collection of photo albums from my recent trip to South Africa (returned August 2005).  Later I will post some video clips and some writings to discuss the experience, of which it is hoped that more trips will follow down the road. 

Johannesburg, Boksburg and Ndebele Community

Dates Covered: Sun 7/17 through Sun 7/24/2005 (after which time spent in Cape Town)

A. Johannesburg

I arrived into Johannesburg early in the morning of Sunday 7/17. Rev. Simon Kudzo met me at the airport and, after he extended an invitation, we immediately went to his church where he preached. I felt the morning had generally gone smooth, and the timing to be at church was simply amazing, as was the rousing service itself. This was all the more surprising because Simon was the main pastor, yet he took the time to pick me up at the airport on a Sunday, although he was to preach that very morning. We had arrived right at the tail end of the musical praise portion of the service.

Upon arrival at the church, and after asking permission, I took pictures during the service (something that I thought would not be acceptable, but even a church member took some video) and I snapped some around the community. The service was what one would say was full of the holy ghost, and in fact in several cases I swear I felt the floor rolling on waves, which is something I have never experienced in such a setting. I fact, as I meditated with eyes closed about certain concerns of my character, each time I intentonally thought on those concerns, I felt a gentle hand brush mine, as if some innocent child was purifying my sin. It was uncanny in the seven or eight instances that this occurred, for when my mind steared from those thoughts, the touches did not occur. Clearly something a little "extra" existed at this church.

The church members not only were friendly and welcoming, but even extended many hugs as if they had known me for years. Following church, Rev. Simon, Pastor Robert, and I went to lunch and got better acquainted. After driving around Johannesburg for a bit to famliarize me to the setting, they dropped me off at a hostel run by Patrick, a white South African, which was the first place I was to sleep (due to the power outage in Boksburg, I was not able to sleep at Madam Foster’s that evening - my initial "host" home). Patrick had a very strong knowledge of African history, having lived in various parts, and I found his command of details to be exceptional. Earlier that day I walked to the mall, but was advised by more than one person (which I had also read before I came here) that walking there after night would represent a high risk for trouble since I looked like a tourist and was alone.

An interesting observation coming from the U.S. is that there were alot of dry-brush fires around Johannesburg, with no firetrucks that could be seen. Many of the fires - resulting from cigarette butts or the burning of rubbish -- appeared to burn themselves out with no cause for alarm by the residents. In other areas of concern, South Africa can get down near freezing in the winter (with temperate, high-60 days), and not one place that I slept at throughout the week had heating of any kind. However, there were ample, thick blankets provided for each of my nights, and in fact I have had no colds or sniffles, which is all the more amazing given that I took cold showers several days this week. Indeed, in the final analysis, I have appreciated this aspect of the traveling life, because it shakes me out of the things I take for granted back home and gives me a fresh appreciation for certain luxuries -- or rather, the absence of -- in life (another luxury not commonly found here is home insurance, as for fires). Being white and in the extreme minority also has its enlightenments, and gives my mind better clarity about being in the minority, although by no means could I ever relate to the fears and suffering during apartheid. In fact, experiencing the sharp sometimes-icy cold at night and early morning makes me more empathetic to those families living in the shanties and shacks around Boksburg, as well as ignites my anger at the Zimbabwe government that rolled over slums recently and left children and families homeless in the cold.

B. Boksburg

On Monday 7/18, which was Mandela’s 87th birthday, I spent time at some poverty-stricken areas of Boksburg, with additional and more intense time on Tuesday. Simon also gave me an orientation on Monday, and got me better acclimated to the surroundings and things I needed to understand to blend well with the South African way of life. We also discussed getting his Staesa.org website up and finalized (which was completed later in the week in its first, rough draft as built by Simon and a fellow from the University of Oregon), as well as the possibility of me opening a Staesa office in the States. Later that day I spent about an hour with Madam Foster at her home and discussed things more in depth concerning her school, and I shared with her a gift I brought from home (family photos, hat, socks, and a poem).

On Monday evening, Simon and Pastor Robert took us volunteers to a restaurant so that we could have a meal in honor of the two teaching volunteers from Canada who would be leaving the next day. Others attending were two students from the U.S. (Missouri) who were doing veterinarian volunteer work, and Esther, who came from Holland for a two month personal expedition across South Africa. That night I went back to Madam Foster’s home to stay and sleep (power eventually returned overnight); as well, I would sleep there Tuesday evening. Incidentally, taxis are white vans, and we employed their use quite often, and the fares seemed reasonable by U.S. standards.

As relates to the Boksburg settlements (one name I saw at a church was Ramaphosa, and the main school building built by the government had been given the Afrikaans name Noncedo meaning "Let’s help one another"), we visited them in part on Monday and more fully on Tuesday. It was an eye-opener to see how people were finding ways to survive and sustain themselves under such harsh conditions, many recycling tin, plastic, and paper for money. Some would buy vegetables and fruits at city markets, and then repackage into smaller bags for resale here. Families often go a day or more without food, and many children sleep with rats running in and out of their shelters.

As we walked through the dirt streets, some lined with sewage, there were many little storefronts, including portable setups where a person would roam through the settlement extensions selling such things as toiletries, candy, batteries, or metal and plastic basins for bathing and laundry. I took photos of shack-based homes, small stores, and shanty schools, the latter of which were set up throughout the five extensions of this squatter camp, and manned by teachers (teacher = "jriffrou" in Afrikanns) trained by Madam Foster. It struck me how extremely well behaved the children were compared to similar-aged children back home. Classrooms were well organized, all the more impressive given the conditions. Everyone who lived there was friendly, and the vast majority accepted and appreciated pictures being taken. I also took about 50 minutes of video, much of which captured Madam Foster’s teaching methods, which my wife will apreciate, being a teacher in Los Angeles.

As a sidenote, on the previous evening the mother of a young boy named Tabo had died of AIDS, and so he wasn’t at school because he had no clean clothes. There are stories like this all the time in the settlements, where many of the homes are simply full of children headed by an older child, all orphans. It is because of this that Madam Foster would like to set up an AIDS orphanage adjacent to her main school, but funding is not currently there. It is expected that perhaps it could cost upwards of one million rands, where a rand is currently at about a 6-to-1 ratio with the dollar. There are currently about a thousand children in her Methodist-Christian ministry program at this one settlement, all with compiled profiles. Some of these children don’t have birth certificates, with one reason being that many parents are illiterate and don’t know how to register for them.

When we returned back to Madam Foster’s home about mid-day, we had observed that a fire had consumed brush running the full length of the street directly opposite her house and those homes adjacent. The grass was blackened and the air was smoky, and it seemed a miracle that none of the homes were burnt. It certainly would have left me with little since my luggage, apart from my backpack, was in the home at the time (although all contents were replaceable, as I was on a good travel-insurance plan, Madam Foster had no home insurance that I recall).

C. Ndebele Cultural Center

On Wednesday, we drove three-and-a-half hours to a Ndebele community north of Pretoria. This is home to one of the main historic tribes of mid and southern Africa (some others are Zulu, Swazi, and Xhosa). Ndebele are particularly well known for adorning their homes with paintings using various geometric shapes and primary colors, as well as for their many-beaded crafts. We (I and a lady from Holland) scheduled five evenings and six days at the village, with accomodations including lanterns and candles as well as the cold showers I mentioned earlier (because the stoves weren’t working correctly to heat the water). However, electricity was available in the kitchen, both GSM and GPRS networks were accessible for cell phone and Email, and tap water was stated to be safe. In as much as nighttime was sharply cold, daytime temperatures rose into the 80’s with a searing sun and cloudless skies. Although crime seems low in this community, particularly compared to the city, I did experience a person in the municipality, where we went for groceries, attempt to forcefully take something from me, but they relented rather quickly, particularly at Gerald’s command.

That day we settled in, and then on Thursday Gerald (whose family, of sister Angelina and mother Francina, are traditional Ndebele and are responsible for overseeing the cultural center and the safety of its guests) took us around the village to observe sites including the local school, a Catholic church, the king’s dwellings, and an assortment of homes - some traditional Ndebele-painting and straw roofed, and some a bit more contemporary in use of brick and mortar. All of the homes were small and humble, and it was apparent that here in the village, and in the town we visited, work was hard and money minimal.

When we visited the school, the children came running and smothered us with love, both literally and figuratively. At one point I was completely buried under a pile of perhaps fifty children all trying to get a glimpse at the latest photo I had taken. And how they loved to have their picture taken -- "shoot," they called it, and kept repeating, all trying to get their picture taken up close. In contrast to the settlement I visited in Boksburg, the children here were more chaotic and carefree, and the teachers didn’t seem to be offended at all with the intrusion of us tourists into their setting, for even they appeared excited to pose for some pictures. The eyes and faces of the children were of happiness and unrestrained giddiness, yet it is important to note that once the time had come to return back to class from this lunch break they were having, all the kids promptly went off to their respective rooms, with only a few stragglers still trying to get that last chance at a picture. The classrooms appeared to me to generally be similar to those back home, except for less modern teaching resources. The walls were recognizably plastered with homework, alphabets, and number charts in English (Ndebele is their first language, but English is taught early on, with the elders of the community speaking more Afrikaans).

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That evening we watched a bull being slaughtered, and I had some great discussions with Michael, who lived nearby and wanted to know about America and the jobs. Michael was educated as an analytical chemist and tests bacterial counts for drinking water (he is currently on leave from this government work). Michael really wants to come to America and to make some better money to return to his family. Michael was the uncle of one of the boys being initiated (more on that), and who would have a bull slaughtered at his house on Saturday. Michael also confirmed what I understood, given his credibility on the subject, that the tap water here in the village was generally safe like other parts of South Africa.

(On Friday and Saturday, South African Airways was on strike and I could not get through to reschedule a Cape Town flight for Sunday so I could stay in the village through Monday. However, Simon, being the superb coordinator he is, took care of it for me as he was able to eventually get through, and so we will go to Cape Town on Wednesday, and have time to visit Pilanesburg Park on Tuesday.)

On Friday and Saturday I mingled more intimately with the community, and the culture seemed to have many parallels to American Indians, past and present. I became accepted in with the people and talked with many new friends for some time (which included colonial names like Charles, Efram, Eric, Michael, along with Cizi -- a servant to the king -- and some elders). We had come during the celebration of initiations into manhood, and I even helped to fully dissect two bulls immediately upon their slaughter, and then ate of the meat and drank some special drink that was meant only for those who helped in the cutting up of the animals. Every part of the slain bull had a purpose, be it for an offering as a whole to the ancestors, testicles for the boy being initiated, a leg for the mother’s place of birth, a part for the wife, another for the king, or one for the home of the place where the boy lived (at which point he could shed his brightly-colored blanket that he wore). Girls would have a similar initiation in the late months of the year, with cows instead of bulls. During the boys’ initiation celebrations, the women are to stay on one side, with the men on the other, although men are occasionally seen to mingle among the women, if only because that is where the food and drink originate. With ample supply of beer, the men will stay and talk throughout the night, as is the custom. The cost of such a celebration, when considering food and gifts, is around ten thousand rand, of which three thousand goes for purchase of the bull.

To explain further, we had fortuitously come at a time that happens only every three to four years when boys in their teens are initiated into manhood with secret rituals and ceremonies in the mountains, finalizing with coming down for circumcision and the slaughtering of a bull - one sacrifice for each boy being initiated. What gets discussed during their time away is not known, and the only way to know is to experience it. So I could never get more details into what makes up the secret process of transitioning the boy into adulthood, and the way it was circumvented reminded me of what one often hears when inquiring about Zen Buddhism. It is said that if the initiate knows "the secret," he doesn’t have to undergo it, although the spirits of long-dead ancestors accept those over to their side who do undergo the secrets, so it behooves the initiate to be courageous.

So at the appointed time, there is a great celebration with gifts (blankets, clothes, necessities) for the boy and his family, and plenty of music being sung into the night and throughout the next day by the regiment of male initiates (of which I have video and sound clips) - they sleep outside during the celebration. These celebrations were going all around the village, among different families. As relates to the bulls, I helped in holding the dead animals down, after watching them die from a knife into the brain and a deep slicing of the throat. The dismemberment involved holding the limbs and body as all parts were cut and hand-axed away, including the muscle, ribs, organs, stomach contents, and intestines. This was an experience full of odd bodily sounds and odors, ample blood, as well as plenty of semi-digested stomach and intestinal contents, yet I felt wholly honored with doing a bit of the cutting myself. By the end of the thorough dismantling, only the skin was left, which itself would turn into a warm blanket. Being generally vegetarian and against animal killing (although I eat some seafood), this was a diversion of my normal diet and way of life, but I felt that it was only possible to know some of the culture if I truly invested myself into it (and I wasn’t here to visit their home and traditions and try to arrogantly interject my views). As I became involved in the rituals, I made a number of friends that perhaps would not so nearly have opened their doors to me, being that I was a white outsider. During one of the events, photographers were here gathering photos and video, and they have a history of supplying content for National Geographic, so perhaps I may see myself captured in the act.

I met a servant of the king, Cizi, whose family -- his surname -- has always been and will always be destined to be royal servants. He helped give me an education concerning the meaning of the bull and some of the Ndebele culture itself. Just previous to the 1900’s, a servant of the king (Cizi’s ancestors) would have to be randomly killed at the same time as when the king died so that he would be prepared as the bed upon which the king would lay when buried. Thankfully this particular custom no longer occurs in light of "human rights," although Cizi stated he would be willing to die for that tradition in order to honor their culture.

As I talked more throughout the day, particularly with Eric, we compared cultural differences and similarities between America and South Africa. We talked about AIDS, of which Eric stated is less prevalent in this village than in Johannesburg (also called "Joburg"), Cape Town, and Pretoria. Indeed life expectancy is higher here than in the main cities. Eric indicated that one big problem he observes is that people don’t get tested for HIV and so go around not knowing if they have it, thereby passing it along (for those infected). He also mentioned that it is common for a male here in Ndebele culture to have four or five wives. Indeed Gerald’s own father, Daniel, has had five wives resulting in twenty children (he is very old now). The increase in partners increases possible transmissions since some of those same wives are also wives or mistresses of others at one time or another. I mentioned to Eric that even in the U.S. there is some infrequent polygamy still practiced, and that the divorce rate is something like fifty percent. However, we value the notion of marrying one partner for life, not only because it is safer, but more so because it brings a level of trust that is very important in relationships, and so having mistresses would diminish that valuable trust that binds the family

One other item I did note among the Ndebele here was that cups are often drank from by more than one person, which can represent another way to transmit any other disease that can travel along that indirect vector. In the States, this would generally be considered an unsafe practice, although among family it is still common. Since families are quite large among the Ndebele, it is assumed that a good portion of those at the celebrations are family, although that probably doesn’t present a useful guideline since even friends are often considered family here (consider that we were invited to the homes to eat as if we were part of the family).

We continued to talk of other things later into the day, including politics, Clinton (whom they love, and who was here in South Africa with Mandela for his birthday this week), Bush (who is generally frowned upon here and in Johannesburg, for those I talked with), recent problems in Zimbabwe, costs of living in Los Angeles, jobs in America, and soccer (of which many are still angry with Charles Dempsey for reserving his tie-breaking vote and knocking South Africa out of the world cup in 2006 when everyone was prepared to receive it --- maybe 2010 now). I believe the discussions were generally educational for us all, as we both learned a little more about the other beyond the normal way we receive that information -- through television.

When I asked how life was after apartheid, the general feedback I got is that things are much better now for blacks. For instance, during apartheid, the only education a black could receive at a university was to be a teacher. If they had a brain for science or engineering, then that was their loss, as they were not allowed to study that. Eric mentioned that during apartheid his friends and family would wake up at 4am in the morning, and go straight to work in the fields. After they returned in the evening, at sunset they went straight to bed out of fear and to ease the mental anguish, for the whites would often disperse blacks if they were gathered as five or more, to the point of beatings. Whites would conduct house-to-house searches to ensure all apartheid rules and segregation were being upheld. That all changed completely after apartheid, and it is all the more amazing and noble that Mandela chose to include prior oppressors in the democratic elections and his government.

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On Sunday I spent time with several children as we played and laughed. They braided my hair, we rolled a tire back and forth, ran together, and swung on a merry-go-round contraption. I let one girl go around with my camera and take pictures, and most of those photos turned out quite good even though it took her a bit to get used to it. I spent the rest of the day relaxing, eating pap (like grits back home) and liver, and gathering my notes together on the week’s events.

While here at the village I invested some money in Gerald’s education as well as helping in the purchase of a bull. This latter instance of the two was a way for me also to see if there is follow-through on the commitment for this money to be sent back to me once the elderly man (whose son was being initiated) gets money back into his account. There is a strict tradition, or code, as relates to such things, and we went through a sort of agreement with Gerald, this man, and myself whereby the man must account to Gerald for the return of the money, and Gerald in turn is responsible to me for ensuring it gets back. We established an acceptance with appropriate hand gestures and acknowledgements, and I left pertinent details to secure the return transaction, and we shall see how it goes.

I left several pictures of family and home, along with a mailing address to stay in contact. In fact, I intend to mail back pictures of the village and school to the Ndebele foundation so that they have them to share and enjoy. Thus far I can say that the trip has met and exceeded my expectations, and laid the groundwork for an eventual return. By the way, I discovered that my birthday is Youth Day in South Africa, the day in 1976 when students in Soweto rebelled and began to ring the first death bells of apartheid.

(see photo album in sidebar)